Ten years ago, the majority of consumers had never heard the words Dehydration, Keratinization, and Exfoliation. Classification of skin types was then divided into either a Dry, Oily, or Combination category.

Through the past ten years, greater knowledge has come into play revealing many misconceptions. It was impossible for everyone to fit into one of the three skin types: Dry, Oily, or Combination. How could a skin care product know what part of the skin it was "dissolving oil" on, and which part it was "hydrating"? All skins are some type of combination with different areas of the face having different conditions, fluctuating with factors such as seasons, diet, stress, medication, and travel. The following are some helpful tips for our clients.

Dehydration makes the skin look less plump or healthy and is not cured with heavy creams or oils. Moisture must be infused into the skin with hydrators that have a small enough molecule to penetrate the surface of the skin. Then the skin may be sealed with a cream to prevent trans-epidermal moisture loss or dryness.

Keratinization must be removed daily by gently exfoliating to allow products to work. Nobody looks healthy with "snowflakes" glued into their make up. Ask the experts at Skin Deep for the proper exfoliation product or professional treatments available.

It is advisable that consumers go to skin care professionals who understand cosmetic chemistry and ingredient listings, as well as skin structure and function. These professionals must understand the difference between Acetylated and Ethoxylated Lanolin. They must also be aware of your medications, stress levels, and allergies, as each of these may prevent the use of a certain product or ingredient.

Education of the consumer should be the first priority of a skin care professional. The consumer must be armed with the information necessary to to make intelligent choices for their particular skin to enhance smoothness, make it flawless, and help it glow in the 21st century.


GLOSSARY OF SKIN CARE BUZZ WORDS


Dehydration: The lack of moisture or dryness in the skin.

Keratinization: process by which dead skin cells (keratinocytes), sebum, and cosmetics build up a layer on the skin.

Exfoliation: Keratinocytes (dead skin cells) gently removed either chemically or physically.

Sebum: fatty lubricant matter secreted by sebaceous (oil) glands of the skin which glue down Keratinocytes and make pores look larger.

Melasma: Darkening of the facial skin, commonly affecting the apples of the cheeks, the mid forehead, jawline and areas around the mouth.

SPF, Skin Protection Factor: amount of sunscreen needed to block UVB and UVA rays. Sunscreens range from an SPF 4 to SPF 45. However, nothing under an SPF 15 works on UVA rays. UVA rays cause skin cancer, wrinkles and brown marks or lentigo. According to the American Cancer Society and the American Academy of Dermatology, 90% of all skin cancer show up on the left side of the face and hands, the driver's window side. Note that UVA is just as strong in the Winter as it is in the Summer. Apply ten minutes prior to swimming or exercising.

Hydrolyzed: A hydrolyzed ingredient refers to the process by which an ingredient's molecule has been changed to a significantly smaller size to penetrate the surface of the skin. Without this process, a cream, oil, or lotion remains a sealant and may not provide moisture. Alpha Hydroxy Acid or Glycolic Acid must by hydrolyzed if in cream or lotion in order to work properly and give good results.

Trans Epidermal Moisture Loss: Dryness that occur in the germanitive layer of the skin.

Lentigo: Brown marks, pre-cancerous lesions caused by sun damage. Often referred to as liver spots.

Written by Alan Darush M.D.