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Summer Skin Guide


Sunscreens and sunblocks have traditionally and successfully focused of the blocking UVB rays (which lead to sunburn), but now there are new findings that suggest it is the weaker-in-strength, but more deeply penetrating UVA radiation that we should really be worrying about. These are the rays that are present year-round, pass easily through glass windows, and as a result of cumulative exposure have been shown to damage collagen and elastin (causing prematurely wrinkled, saggy skin) and leads to DNA mutated cells and is a precursor to cancer. With sunscreen, It doesn't matter how high your SPF is, it's an ingredient game.

Skin Cancer has hit epidemic level - the American Cancer Society reports that the incidence of Melanoma has more than doubled since 1973 and the mortality rate has risen a staggering 42% - but specific ingredients, or the absence thereof, are not only to blame. One of the main culprits: call it operator error. "People don't use enough sunscreen; they put it on in a patchy and uneven fashion and don't adequately re-apply after swimming," says Neil Sadick, M.D., clinical professor of Dermatology at New York Hospital - Cornell Medical Center. Manhattan dermatologist Lisa Airan, M.D., who underlines the importance of applying sunscreen fifteen minutes prior to sun exposure allow the ingredients time to activate on the skin, tells her patients to consider an eight-ounce bottle enough for eight applications. "If you have the same bottle of sunscreen in your beach bag all summer, you're not using enough," she says.

In fact, to say that people are not as protected as they "think they are is a gross understatement", says Sheldon Pinnell, M.D., professor emeritus of dermatology at the Duke University Medical Center. Their recent study found that most people only apply a quarter the amount of the sunscreen they need to receive the full protection the indicated on the label, and his study revealed that even someone with the best intentions, using an SPF 30 lotion, may receive only protection equivalent to a 2 or 3. Scary, and as a result Pinnell has devoted his research to finding supplemental methods of naturally boosting one's immunity to the sun - specifically, the synergistic effect of topical antioxidants and sunscreen. His groundbreaking study, published as the lead article in the June 2002 Dermatology Times, found that vitamins C (L-ascorbic acid, the form of C our skin can use.) and E offer additional protection against photo damage and skin cancer, intercepting and destroying free radicals formed when ultraviolet light is absorbed into the skin. "If you use both sunscreen and antioxidants you'll ideally be protected on the outside and the inside, at the cellular level.

"Think of it as a second line of defense," says Pinnell. The doctor does not expect all beachgoers immediately go to the trouble of applying a multi-protection cream SPF 30  or SPF 30 with green tea underneath their sunscreen adds fatalistically, "When you get your first skin cancer, you'll be motivated to do it."